[p. 132] San Vicente y Santa Monica.
It is probable that the rich grazing lands in the vicinity of Santa Monica were utilized early after the establishment of "el Pueblo de Los Angeles," for the herds of the settlers and of the missions multiplied with amazing rapidity and by 1800 the grazing land in the immediate vicinity of Los Angeles and San Gabriel was overstocked. After the granting of the Malibu, however, we have no record of settlement in this neighborhood until 1827 when Francisco Sepulveda and Augustin Machado, settlers of Los Angeles, petitioned for a tract of land. According to the testimony of José Antonio Carrillo, who was alcade in 1828, he received an order from "the Hon. José Maria Echandin, a Political Chief, issued by virtue of a petition of several citizens, requesting to be placed in provisional possession of the common lands of the city held by them."
Amongst these, he gave possession to Francisco Sepulveda of the lands known as San Vicente, with a piece of pasture (potrero) named Santa Monica. "The order of Gov. Echandia only had reference to parties who owned one hundred and fifty head of cattle, and as Sepulveda came within this condition it was especially commanded to give him this land with the adjoining potrero of Santa Monica." But the boundaries of the lands thus given possession of were not defined and there was soon dispute as to the territory included. December 20th, 1839, a title was issued to the rancho called San Vicente and Santa Monica, in favor of Don Francisco Sepulveda, "with the condition of abiding whatever actions should be had thereon, in case such land may be comprised within the limits of the City of Los Angeles." This grant was made by Governor Alvarado; but it still did not settle the question of boundary which was disputed on all sides. In 1840 Sepulveda petitioned the governor to place him in "pacific possession of the property, as Francisco Marquez and Ysidero Reyes have given a bad example of disobedience and that under the strength of discordant documents they remain in possession of the place called Santa Monica." In 1846 Governor Pico confirmed Sepulveda's grant, but as Marquez and Reyes also had a grant to the "potrero" of Santa Monica, the dispute over the boundaries continued and was not settled until the question came into the United States courts and after long litigation was decided. The San Vicente y Santa Monica grant was finally confirmed July 23, 1881, to include 30,259 acres instead of the 58,409 acres originally claimed.
[p. 133, Photo San Vicente Ranch House]
[p. 133] Aside from the question of boundaries, there has been much litigation over the possession of the San Vicente lands. On the death of Don Francisco, the property was left to his wife and children, and several lawsuits were necessay in the family before the lands were satisfactorily divided.
Don Francisco Sepulveda, the original grantee, with two brothers, were among the earliest settlers of California. He was first a soldier in San Diego, but in 1815 was a citizen of Los Angeles, cultivating pueblo lands. The Sepulveda family has played an important part in the history of Southern California and is connected with many of the best families of today. Don Francisco had a large family One of his sons, Don José, was grantee of the San Joaquin rancho and took a leading part in early local and political affairs. He was the father of Judge Ygnacio Sepulveda and Mrs. Thomas Mott. Don Francisco built a ranch house near the San Vicente springs in 1837. Here he set out vineyards and orchards and at least three of his sons resided with him or built houses near by. There were Juan Maria, Carmel and Dolores. Traces of these buildings can still be seen, although the original ranch houses have all disappeared. The last home of Dolores Sepulveda, built in 1863, an adobe house well preseved and very typical of the ranch house of early days, still stands. At one end is a very old walnut tree and back of it stand the twin sycamores which have long been a landmark.
Don Francisco also had a home in Los Angeles and was frequently concerned in municipal affairs. In 1824 he was "regidor" or recorder, of the pueblo; later he was alcalde and on the secularization of the missions, he was made administrator of San Juan Capistrano. In 1831 he was one of the victims of Governor Victoria's arbitrary orders and with Tomas Talmantes, José Maria Avila, Maximo Alanis, Demisio Domingurez and José Aguilar, was imprisoned for supposed implication in the removal of the presiding alcalde, Vincente Sanchez, whom the citizens of Los Angeles had removed from office, because of alleged incompetence to hold the position, and whom they refused to restore to the alcaldeship when Victoria so ordered.
[p. 134 Hon. G. Wiley Wells, 1908b]
The Sepulveda familty were given to horse racing, as appears from various [p. 135] records. There seems to have been bitter rivalry between the Sepulvedas and the Picos, in the matter of horses. In 1840, according to Bancroft, a horse race took place between animals owned by Andréas Pico and Fernando Sepulveda, a minor. The result led to a dispute and a suit againt Sepulveda for the stakes. The father was finally forced to pay the stake by Alcalde Lugo. The matter was appealed to the governor, who on advice of the judges of the first district, decided that Lugo must pay back the stakes and be suspended from office until he should do so. Lugo refused to be suspended, or to pay the stakes, except after legal proceedings by the junta. He claimed that the governor and the Monterey judge had acted as partisans, and that they had made many blunders and that the affair was none of their business, anyhow, but belonged to the superior tribunal, and if there was no such body, it was their own fault. He said that Francisco Sepulveda was present at the race and had in other races paid his son's losses without objection. The final decisions of this interesting case does not appear on record; but it is evident that the affair led to a long and bitter trial of horse-flesh between the Picos and Sepulvedas.
In 1852, a race took place which has become historical. The Picos owned a gelding which had beaten every other animal put up against it. José Sepulveda, after repeated losses, was eager to seize any chance to "down" Pico's horse. While on a trip to San Diego, he saw a mare which attracted his attention. It proved to be an English thoroughbred, just brought over from Australia. He at once negotiated for the animal, it is said, offering to pay the owners ten thousand dollars for her. He returned north and made the arrangement for a race of three leagues at San Pedro, to be run to a stake and back again. Excitement ran high and on the day of the race the entire population of the country, with visitors from Santa Barbara and even Monterey, and all San Diego, were present. The horse was to be ridden California style, the rider strapped to his bare back and the owners and backers permitted to ride beside him and use the whip. The mare was equipped in the American style, with light racing saddle and a little jockey.
Betting ran high. It was the custom among Californians to hand over the sum of money bet to the taker. After the race, the holder kept the money, if he won, or returned it double, if he lost. No papers or guarantees were necessary, for a California's [sic] word was as good, or better, than a bond. On this occasion the Californians all bet heavily on Pico's horse, while the Americans backed Don José's Black Swan. The Swan, after a terrific struggle, won, and it is said Sepulveda won nearly fifty thousand dollars. After the race was over, he took the bridle of the mare and declared that she should never again wear bridle or saddle, and he kept his word. She passed the rest [p. 136] of her life upon the plains. He had won from the Pico's-that was triumph enough.
Another instance of the horsemanship of the family is related by Major Horace Bell in his Reminiscences of a Ranger. He describes a rodeo held in May, 1853, at San Joaquin rancho, the home of Don José Sepulveda. On the third night of the affair at midnight Don José and his brother Don Fernando were still talking gaily with their guests. A little later a messenger arrived with the news that their aged father, Don Francisco Sepulveda, was about to pass away. The brothers at once mounted. Major Bell and another American decided to accompany them, although warned that they could not keep up. As Don José was then sixty years of age, they felt confident that they would be able to hold their own; but before the party reached Los Nictos, the Sepulvedas had disappeared in a cloud of dust and the Americans drew rein, having ridden forty-three miles in three hours.
[p.136, Photo: First House in Santa Monca, Built by Francisco Marquez]
[p. 136] Boca de Santa Monica
One of the earliest settlers in the pueblo de Los Angeles was Francisco Reyes, who came with a party in 1785. Very soon thereafter he must have taken possession of lands in the vicinity of San Fernando, for in 1797 the Rancho Encino held by him was taken from him and both land and buildings appropriated to the San Fernando Mission. His son, Ysidro, was born in Los Angeles and in 1828 he, with Francisco Marquez was given a provisional grant to lands already occupied by them for grazing purposes in the Santa Monica Canyon. This grant was known as the "Boca de Santa Monica" (the mouth of Santa Monica). The land included in it was later claimed to be part of Santa Monica potrero granted to Francisco Sepulveda. In 1839, Governor Alvarado investigated the conflicting claims and regranted each tract to the original holders. Still the question of the boundary was disputed and was not finally disposed of until about 1880, when the United [p. 137] States courts fixed the limits of the Boca de Santa Monica and July 21st, 1882, a patent for 6,656 acres of land was confirmed to Marquez and Reyes.
Ygnacio Reyes built a ranch house in Rustic Canyon and the family have continuously occupied the land since 1824, part of the grant still being owned by the descendants of the original grantees. This is an unusual case for generally the great land grants of the state have passed entirely out of the hand of the Californians, and the families of the original claimants have profited nothing by the marvelous increase in values.
Ygnacio Reyes also owned a home in Los Angeles, on Main street, near Fourth and is frequently mentioned in the annals of the town. He died there during an epidemic of smallpox in 1863. Three sons still survive him, Guadalupe of Sawtelle; Ysidro and Antonio of Los Angeles.
Francisco Marquesz built his ranch house on the edge of the bluff, about at the end of Seventh street. Here it was a landmark for many years, having been destroyed within the past few years. Members of the family still live in Santa Monica Canyon and retain a part of the original lands.
[p. 137] La Ballona
La Ballona rancho, or as it was named in the original document "La Ballena" (the whale), was formally granted to a company composed of Augustin and Ygnacio Machado, Felipe and Tomas Talamantes, all citizens of Los Angeles, by Governor Alvarado in 1839. There is evidence to show that prior to this grant, a tract of land nearer to Los Angeles had been occupied by the same citizens as a stock range but had been taken back from them, either because it was too near the city, or was needed for the stock of San Gabriel.
At any rate they received a princely domain in fertile fields and rich pastures of "La Ballona," and at once stocked it and built residences upon it. The haciendas of the Machados on this ranch were among the best examples of the California home. They are still standing-that of Augustin Machado, a large and most substantial adobe, the walls and roof of which is still intact, is unoccupied at present and is used as a store house. It seems a pity that this, one of the best specimens of the early California homes should not be preserved. The home of Ygnacio Machado, a little distance away, is now occupied by one of his sons, Antonio, and the part which remains is in good repair and is a fine sample of the simplicity and solidity of the genuine adobe house of the better class. This house once contained fourteen rooms built about a court, but a portion of these have now been removed.
The Machado brothers were prominent among early residents of Los Angeles. They owned a tract of two acres of land in the vicinity of Second and Main streets, where each of them had homes. Augustin Machado served "el pueblo de Los Angeles" as alcalde, and was frequently concerned in public [p. 138] affairs. He married Ramona, a daughter of Don Francisco Sepulveda, of the San Vicente, and their home both in Los Angeles and at La Ballona, was a center of social gaity. Of this marrriage there are still living Bernardino, Andréas and José de Luz, all of whom reside on Ballona lands. One son, Dolores, died in 1906, leaving a family which resides in Ocean Park; two daughters, Mrs. Juan Barnard and Ascencion, have recently died. Don Augustin died in Los Angeles in 1865.
Bancroft tells this story of Don Augustin: "The merchant, Don José Antonio Aguirre, owner of the Ship Joven Guipuzcoana, once had a new supercargo, who was a stranger to and ignorant of affairs in California. While the ship lay at San Pedro, Aguirre being absent, Augustin Machado, a well-to-do ranchero, and a man of sterling character, but who could neither read or write, went on board to make purchases, his carretas being at the landing. After selecting his goods, as he was about to place them in a launch to be carried on shore, the supercargo asked him for payment, or some guaranty or note of hand. Machado stared at him in great astonishment; at first he could not comprehend what the man meant. Such a demand had never been made from him before, nor, in fact, from any other ranchero. After a while the idea struck him that he was distrusted. Plucking one hair from his beard, he seriously handed it to the supercargo, saying, "Here, deliver this to Señor Aguirre and tell it is a hair from the beard of Augustin Machado. It will cover your responsibility-it is sufficient guaranty." The young man much abashed, took the hair and placed it carefully in his books and Machdo carried away the goods. Aguirre was chagrined on hearing the story, for Machdo's word was as good as the best bond. José M. Estudillo relates this incident and also the following: In 1850 Aguirre sent Estudillo to Los Angeles to collect old bills, many of which were outlawed; but the greater part of which were finally paid. He visited Machado's rancho at La Ballona, to collect a balance of about $4000 and happened to arrive when the house was full of company. He was cordially received as a guest and when apprised of the object of his visit, Machado said that he had been for some time thinking that he was indebted to Aguirre, and promised to meet Estudillo in Los Angeles in two days. At the time appointed Machado was there and delivered the whole sum at the door of Manuel Requena's house, refusing to take a receipt, saying that Aguirre was not in the habit of collecting the same bill twice."
Ygnacio Machado married Estefania Palomares, daughter of a well-known Spanish family of Los Angeles county. Three of their sons still survive, Antonio, living in the old house; Andrés, who lives in Hollywood, and Cristobal, now in Texas. Don Ygnacio is described as a man of stern, yet generous mold. It was his habit to rise very early and waken his household to join him [p. 139] in the morning song, with which it was the custom for all good Spanish families to begin the day. Of Ygnacio Machado, J.J. Warner wrote in 1876: "Don Ygnacio survives the others (of his company)-those faithful friends of his earlier days, at the age of eighty-two, he grasps the hand as warmly as ever, rides on horseback, as usual; patriarch to whom the community bears respect, almost filial." The Machado brothers were widedly known and deeply respected as honorable and just men, generous and ever kind. The present head of this branch of the family, Antonio Machado, son of Ygnacio, is a worthy successor of his father. Simple, unassuming, courtly, of good judgement and kindly heart, he looks back to the old days and the care-free life of the past with wistful eyes.
The Ballona grant of 13,919 acres was confirmed to the Machados December 8th, 1873. It was at once divided among the members of the familty and tracts of it were sold. It comprised nearly two thousand acres of first-class irrigable land, two thousand acres of damp lands which needed no irrigation, and the rest was pasture land. In early days it was chiefly occupied as a stock range, although some grain was raised and orchards of various fruits were planted about the haciendas. The district was occupied by a number of families in the fifties and sixties and was one of th first townships set aside, originally including San Vicente, Boca de Santa Monica, Malibu and a large territory. It was organized into a school district during the sixties and was a factor in the election of early days. During the seventies Francisco Machado, a son of Augustin, was one of the county supervisors and political "boss" of the district. Although many properous American farmers are now residents of Ballona lands and the towns of Palms, Ocean Park and Venice are located on lands originally belonging to the rancho, the Machados still retain a part of the original grant and a considerable number of native Californians are found in the vicintiy.
Antonio Machado married Manuela Valuenza and has a number of children, most of whom are still living at home. Andreas, a son of Augustin, lives on the old Augustin Machado place and has recently built a very comfortable home. José la Luz also lives in the neighborhood in a neat cottage.
In 1861 a military camp was located on La Ballona, near the creek about three-quarters of a mile from the present town of Palms. This was made the headquarters of the First California Volunteer Infantry, Gen. J.H. Carleton, commanding officer. The camp was established in September, being occupied by Company A, under Col. Latham, for whom the station was named Camp Latham. Several companies were encamped here and at one time there were probably 150 men present. They were sent from here to Arizona to protect the mail service and the camp was not occupied after 1862. A couple of soldiers were buried here and in 1895 their neglected graves were remembered by the veterans of Santa Monica, who made a special trip to decorate them.